1981年美国阿式队在贡嘎主峰西南壁的攀登过程

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原创翻译文稿：
在持续的坏天气中，我们花掉19天的时间把物资运上大贡嘎冰川的南侧，然后开始探查冰瀑和南壁。我们的营地分别建立在海拔14,925英尺和占据在海拔17,050英尺。从较高的营地出发， Bocarde, Barber 和我为了获得一条跨越冰瀑直达西南壁上部的安全线路进行了几次探查，但每次都由于复杂的、高度活跃的冰瀑中存在局部的客观风险而不得不折返。十月10日在经过全体队员的最后一次不成功的探查后，大伙一致决定放弃跨越冰瀑的线路，从冰川退回到更远端的部分，从那儿开始通过一条距离更长的线路来攻克西南壁上部。
接着雪崩把REIchardt, Williamson, Bocarde 和 Barber从南壁下部的中央部分撵走。十月12日，Reichardt, Williamson和我到达了南壁下部西山脊上位于海拔20,750英尺处的一个制高点。但是，从山脊再往上是一堆复杂的檐口。从运输和攀登时间的角度来看，这种地形已被证实是一个死结。同时，坏天气仍在继续，这导致今年攀登南壁的目标显得过于危险而不可行。十月13日夜里我们决定停止尝试，在清理了营地之后，我们得以及时下撤去帮助山地旅游团体（商业队）进行最后阶段的撤离。尽管今年我们没能从南面登顶，但我肯定我们之中没有任何人会认为这条线路是不可能被开辟的。在季风前任何一个给定的季节，大雪和严寒可以改善冰瀑的状况。正常来说，季风结束后都会有适合的天气条件，那时南壁下部中央部分的攀登条件将会变得极其完美。
英文原文：
In consistently bad weather we spent nineteen days ferrying loads up the south side of the Greater Minya Konka Glacier and then probing the icefall and south face. Camps were established and occupied at 14,925 and 17,050 feet. From the higher camp Bocarde, Barber and I made several probes for a safe route through the icefall to the upper southwest face of Gongga Shan, only to be turned back on each probe by local objective danger in the complex and highly active icefall. A final unsUCCessful probe by all members on October 10 led to a decision to abandon the route through the icefall and seek the upper face by a longer route starting farther back down the glacier.
Avalanches then chased Reichardt, Williamson, Bocarde and Barber off the central portion of the lower south face. A high point on the western edge of the lower south face at 20,750 feet was reached on October 12 by Reichardt, Williamson and me, but the ridge above was a complex of cornices（檐口）.
It proved a dead end from the perspective of logistics and time. The bad weather continued, leaving the lower south face too dangerous to climb this year. We abandoned our attempt on the night of October 13 and after clearing our camps, descended in time to assist the Mountain Travel party in the final stages of their evacuation. Although we did not reach the summit from the south this year, I doubt that any of us consider the route impossible. Heavy snowfall and cold weather might improve the icefall in any given premonsoon season. In the suitable weather which normally follows the monsoon the central portion of the lower south face will be an excellent climb. (See Die Grossen Kalten Berge von Szetschuan by Eduard Imhof, Zürich: Orell Füssli Verlag, 1974 for maps and detailed area descriptions. An American translation by Katrina Moore is in press to be published by the American Alpine Club.)
Andrew C. Harvard



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